Olympus Studio 2 Tether Drivers For Mac

Olympus Capture is a tethering application which connects compatible. You can also link the program to Olympus Viewer 3 for even greater studio photography support. PC‑Control of the camera; Wireless flash function; Compatible with Live View. E‑M1 Mark II, Olympus, System Cameras; Micro 4/3 Cameras. Please update firmware of the camera body to the latest version before use. This Tethering software was designed primarily for still photography.

Announce Date: October 16, 2014 Model Number: A1347 EMC Number: EMC 2840 Developer: Operating System: OS X Yosemite Processor: 1.4 GHz dual-core Intel Core i5 (Turbo Boost up to 2.7 Ghz), 2.6 GHz dual-core Intel Core i5 (Turbo Boost up to 3.1 Ghz), or 2.8 GHz dual-core Intel Core i5 (Turbo Boost up to 3.3 GHz) RAM: Configurable up to 16 GB of 1600 MHz LPDDR3 flash memory. (not user-upgradeable) Storage: 500 GB hard drive (5400 RPM), Configurable to 1 TB hard drive (5400 RPM), 1 TB Fusion Drive, or 256 GB, 512 GB, or 1 TB of flash storage (SSD) Graphics: Intel HD Graphics 5000, or Intel Iris Graphics Ports: Four USB 3.0 ports, two Thunderbolt 2 ports, one SDXC slot, gigabit ethernet port, HDMI port, audio in port, headphone jack Connectivity: 802.11ac Wi-Fi, IEEE 802.11a/b/g/n compatible, and Bluetooth 4.0 Dimensions: 1.4 x 7.7 x 7.7 in (3.6 x 19.7 x 19.7 cm) Weight: 2.6 lb (1.19 kg). Hd driver for mini mac.

When you’re shooting product photography or other stuff in studio being able to see what you’ve just shot in the program you are actually going to edit your image in is a huge help to efficiency by taking away a lot of the to and fro between camera, card reader and computer. I used to shoot tethered in Lightroom with Nikon D700, so when I moved to Olympus it was something I missed having quite a lot.

I am still not sure why Adobe don’t offer tethering for camera brands other than Nikon and Canon, but with the free (OC) app it actually doesn’t matter anymore because as an Olympus E-M1 shooter you actually get much more control by using their app than you would from using Lightroom directly. I’m going to walk you through some of the features of the Olympus Capture app and explain how I use it to shoot tethered.

Getting It Working The setup of the system is very simple. All you do once you have the USB cable plugged into the camera is open the app.

The app will tell you whether or not you have a camera attached and whether the camera is in the tethered shooting mode. To put the E-M1 in the tethered shooting mode you need to go into the E-M1’s custom menu D and right at the bottom of that category you will find an item called USB mode.

Set that to the icon that looks like a camera connected to a PC and you should be good to go. You’ll know its working when you see the live view of the E-M1 on your PC/Mac screen. There are some in-app options you can adjust that will give you control over where the images are going to be stored, either on the camera or immediately transferred to a location on the computer. This has some interesting implications that I will get to a bit later. You can change the file names too if you wish.

There are also some display settings you may wish to adjust, such as if you are using multiple monitors you can display the app full screen in a designated monitor. It’s unlikely that I am going to install a larger monitor on a set, but the option is there if I want to. Actually, what I would probably do if I was shooting portraits and wanted the sitter to see their shot while they are on set and immediately after it has been taken is mirror the MacBook screen to my Apple TV and put that somewhere near the camera. A bit of a palava to set up, but it can be very helpful in directing people if they can see the frame you’re about to shoot before you shoot it. Setting up olympus Capture is a lot easier than getting the wifi to work on the Olympus Image Share app!

The Graphical User Interface When it’s opened OC brings up 4 distinct windows and this is where I think there are some issues with the design. There are two small windows and 2 large windows. The two large windows are dedicated to the live view and the camera controls. In default arrangement they are as shown in the screenshot below, with the settings on the right and the large live view on the left.

You can re-size the live view window but you can’t re-size the setting window. Screenshot showing the system when it first connects - note the two small floating windows for Rec View and Histogram The other two windows are a live histogram and a Rec view window. The histogram window I have no use for when shooting tethered for a flash lit set because it’s displaying what it sees before the flashes fire, which makes it fairly useless in that situation. I keep it closed.